How to Choose a Radon Mitigation Contractor in Huntsville: EPA Checklist

Quick answer: Alabama doesn't license radon mitigators, so ask for current NRPP or NRSB certification and confirm it on the program's website. Get more than one estimate, and compare what each includes. The EPA says a good proposal covers diagnostic testing, a warning device, a post-installation test and a written guarantee to get below 4 pCi/L. Get a written contract before work starts. Then check the finished system: it should be labeled, with the exhaust above the roof, the fan outside the living space, and a follow-up test within 30 days.

Once a radon test comes back high, most Huntsville homeowners want it fixed quickly. That's reasonable, but it pays to spend an hour comparing contractors first. Radon systems look simple: a pipe, a fan and a gauge. How well one works depends on where the suction point goes, how the pipe is routed, and whether the installer checked how air moves under your slab or crawl space. The EPA's Consumer's Guide to Radon Reduction includes a checklist for exactly this decision. This page walks through it with local notes.

Step 1: Check credentials

The EPA recommends a certified or otherwise qualified radon mitigation contractor. It notes that many states license radon professionals. In states that don't, it suggests asking whether the contractor holds a professional proficiency or certification credential and follows industry consensus standards. Alabama is one of the states with no radon license (see our permits and licensing guide). In practice, the credential to ask for is certification through one of the two national programs:

NRPP (National Radon Proficiency Program)
NRSB (National Radon Safety Board)

The EPA notes that these private programs usually give members a photo ID card showing their qualifications and an expiration date. Ask for the ID number, then look it up on the program's website yourself. Certification is personal, so ask whether the certified person will design or supervise your job.

Step 2: Get more than one estimate

The EPA says to choose a radon contractor the way you'd choose anyone for a home repair: get more than one estimate, ask for references and call some of them. While you talk with each company, the EPA suggests checking:

Will they provide references or photos, plus before-and-after radon results from past jobs?
Can they explain what the work involves, how long it takes and exactly how the system will work?
Do they charge for diagnostic tests? Many give free estimates but may charge for diagnostics. Diagnostics can be necessary for an unusual house or a difficult job.
Did they inspect your home's structure before giving a price?
Did they look at your radon results and check that the test was done properly?

That last point matters here. ADPH notes that north Alabama's karst geology can make radon levels swing widely, which is why it publishes separate testing instructions for karst areas. A careful contractor will ask how and when you tested before recommending a system. If your only number is a single short-term test, see our radon testing guide.

Want a certified pro to look at your home?Free, no-obligation call. We connect you with an independent Huntsville-area radon specialist.

Call (256) 384-5831

Step 3: Compare what each bid includes

Price alone doesn't tell you much. The EPA points out that a cheaper system may cost more to run and maintain or look worse on the house. A more expensive one may be the right fit, and material quality affects how long it lasts. According to the EPA checklist, each proposal should state whether it includes:

Proof of certification or professional proficiency credentials
Proof of liability insurance and bonding, and any licenses local rules require
Diagnostic testing before the system is designed
A warning device that tells you if the system stops working, usually a manometer
A radon test after installation
A guarantee to reduce radon to 4 pCi/L or below, and how long it lasts

For typical price ranges and what drives them, see our radon mitigation cost guide.

Step 4: Get a written contract

The EPA advises asking for a contract before any work starts, reading it, and making sure it matches the proposal. It lists what a contract should contain:

The total cost, including taxes and permit fees, plus any deposit and when the balance is due
How long the work will take
An agreement to get the necessary permits and follow building codes
A statement that the contractor carries liability insurance and is bonded and insured
Responsibility for damage during the job and for cleanup
Details of any guarantee to reduce radon below a negotiated level
Warranty details for the fan and other hardware
Whether warranties or guarantees transfer if you sell the home
What you need to do beforehand, such as clearing access to the work area

The EPA notes that many contractors will adjust the system to reach a negotiated level, such as 2 pCi/L, and that optional extras like an extended warranty or service plan may be worth it. Inside Huntsville, Madison and unincorporated Madison County, the electrical connection for the fan is the part most likely to need a permit. Ask who pulls it.

Step 5: Check the finished system

The EPA lists basic installation requirements you can check yourself once the crew leaves:

Labeling. The system should be clearly labeled so no one changes it by accident.
Exhaust location. The pipe must vent above the roof surface and at least 10 feet above the ground. It must also be at least 10 feet from windows, doors or other openings, unless it vents at least 2 feet above them.
Fan location. The fan must not sit in or below living space. The EPA says it should be in unconditioned space, such as an attic or garage, or outside the house. A fan mounted outdoors must be rated for exterior use under local code.
Electrical work. Connections must follow local electrical codes.
Warning device. It must be easy to see or hear, and the contractor should show you that it works.
Paperwork. Ask for written operating and maintenance instructions and copies of all warranties.

Step 6: Retest, and keep the records

The EPA recommends a post-mitigation test within 30 days of installation, but no sooner than 24 hours after the system starts running. It suggests a 2- to 7-day test, with windows and doors closed for 12 hours before and during the test except for normal entry and exit. The contractor may run their own test, but the EPA recommends an independent one too, either from a separate tester or one you run yourself. After that, glance at the manometer regularly and retest at least every two years. The EPA notes that fans often last five years or more and that warranties rarely run longer. Keep the contract, the permit, the post-mitigation result and the warranty together. A buyer's inspector will ask for them when you sell (see our real estate radon guide).

Red flags

A price given over the phone with no look at the house or your test results
No certification number, or a refusal to put the guarantee in writing
A plan to put the fan in a basement, closet or other living space
An exhaust that ends at the side of the house near a window instead of above the roof
No warning device, or no post-installation test in the quote

Frequently asked questions

Does Alabama license radon mitigation contractors?

No. Alabama has no state radon license. ADPH points residents to the two national certification programs, NRPP and NRSB. Ask for a certification number and check it on the program's website.

How many quotes should I get?

The EPA says it's wise to get more than one estimate and to check references. Compare what each includes (diagnostics, warning device, post-test, guarantee), not just the price.

What guarantee should a radon contractor offer?

The EPA checklist asks whether the proposal includes a guarantee to reduce radon to 4 pCi/L or below, and for how long. Many contractors will commit to a negotiated level such as 2 pCi/L. Get the terms in the contract.

Should the installer do the follow-up test?

The contractor may test their own work, but the EPA recommends an independent follow-up test too, done within 30 days of installation and at least 24 hours after the system starts.

Where should the radon fan go?

The EPA says the fan must not be in or below a living area. It's usually in an attic, a garage or on an outside wall, with the exhaust above the roof.